BRITANNIA SEAMOUNT

On the weekend of 3-6 February 2023, I went to the Britannia Seamount off Southport in the Gold Coast. I was hoping for a New Caledonian Storm Petrel, and came home with a bogey bird crossed off my list! Howzat! The trip was organized by Paul Walbridge. We were on M.V. Grinner, captained by Craig Newton, and a lovely new boat it was too. It only rained at night (sounds like Camelot!) but it was a bit warmer than I'd have liked. In fact, although I wore my hat most diligently, I came home with a bright red burnt face. (Most captivating for my early morning meeting with my publisher on Tuesday I'm sure you'll agree!) I recorded 17 species, and I know I wasn't alone in secretly hoping for more. Most common were Grey-faced and Tahiti Petrels, but there were also good numbers of Flesh-footed Shearwaters and Sooty Terns. There were fewer Wedge-tailed Shearwaters and a surprisingly large number of Kermadec Petrels, all in various stages of moult. One very handsome Gould's Petrel flew past giving us all good looks, contrasting with one Long-tailed Jaeger and one White-tailed Tropicbird, which each grudgingly and fleetingly put in an appearance, just long enough to get onto the list but not to satisfy anyone. There were two Red-tailed Tropicbirds. But, sadly, no New Caledonian Storm Petrels, the main reason most of us were there. This bird was discovered in 1839, then not seen again for 169 years. It was rediscovered in 2008 off Noumea, and since 2011, 170 sightings have been documented off Southport. Most unfortunately, we were not able to add to that total. We did see three or four White-bellied Storm Petrels, each of which hung around the boat, giving everyone a good opportunity to study it. I think everyone agreed that the Bird of the Day on Saturday was one single Bulwer's Petrel, that flew by quickly giving just a fleeting glance. When photographs were examined later, opinions differed as to its identification. It wasn't a Bulwer's Petrel at all! It was a dark storm petrel, but which one? Sadly, no one had a definitive photo. As I write, the bird's identity remains a mystery. Overnight a Tahiti Petrel landed on deck and we awoke to the pleasure of letting it go. I'm delighted to report that, by the time I emerged, it had already been captured and safely placed in a crate with a towel on top. I was told it was to be measured before it was released. In the end it was released without being measured, because no one had sufficiently robust protective gloves. It was not in the least bit scared and sat on the edge of the crate eyeing us all with an interested gaze, before finally flying to freedom. We were all becoming a bit dejected by the early afternoon on Sunday, when we hadn't seen anything really exciting. Then my bogey bird appeared. I had given up and gone into the cabin to treat myself to a beer. No sooner had I sat down, than I was called outside. My bogey bird had appeared! And there it was. Unambiguously big and beautiful. As shown in these terrific photos by Paul Walbridge.

I find myself no longer able to feel any animosity towards the White-necked Petrel, which over the years I have learned not to love. I have travelled interstate on 23 occasions attempting to see this bird. Now, while attempting to see something else, I have seen it. In fact I saw two birds. And magnificent they were too. Very big and very beautiful. Perhaps not worth 23 interstate trips, or waiting twenty years to see it. On the other hand, perhaps it was worth the wait. They really were most impressive. In fact, I'd say, literally breathtaking. Included in my notes to help me identify a White-necked Petrel if I ever happened to see one, is the comment: 'more relaxed flight than smaller cookalaria.' This seems to me a most unhelpful comment. Both birds I saw flew so fast, that everytime I took my binoculars off one, I couldn't find it again without some trouble. I reckon it would be hard to describe the flight as 'relaxed.' I believe a good weekend was enjoyed by all, even those of us who didn't get a lifer. Of course I was disappointed that I didn't see my New Caledonian Storm Petrel, but I can hardly complain, can I?